¶ Re-Lubricating the Z-Axis Lead Screws by Austin Dennis
This is a MANDATORY periodic maintenance item to keep your printer functioning properly with stock hardware. There are aftermarket components that can remove the need for leadscrew lubrication (POM nuts and PTFE coated leadscrews), but I encourage you to do your own research on them as the scope of this guide is limited.
Additionally, brass leadscrew nuts wear out, even with adequate lubrication. If you develop print surface quality issues over time (starts to show around 1-2 years with adequate lubrication), look into replacing your leadscrew nuts. There are no replacement leadscrew nuts on the market at the time of writing this (May 2023) [Edited by clovisd - Nov 23]. You'd have to get them directly from AnkerMake Support or adapt an available market leadscrew nut to the existing z-blocks. Don't wait until you have issues to figure that out if this is your only printer!
If you haven't ever done this before, start doing this maintenance starting at 6 months into owning the printer for a light user and 3 months for a heavy user.
¶ Periodicity Requirements [Grease and Dry Lubricant]:
- Z-Axis Leadscrew Inspection:
- [Both] At least monthly, upon hearing any abnormal noises, or upon observing any hitching type motion on the z-axis
- Lubricant Top Off (just add some more):
- [Dry Lubricant] At least every 3 months
- [Grease] Every 2-4 months if not required to do a full clean and re-lube by the above list
- Full Clean and Re-Lubricate:
- [Grease] At least every 6 months
- [Dry Lubricant] As required not to exceed 6 months
- [Both] As required if monthly inspection shows any of the following: metal shards/shavings present, grease is black or much darker than fresh.
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Index of Part Terminology:
Part Terminology can sometimes vary between guides, and use-case; use this as a quick reference of what each part described in the following article.
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Part Name | Part Description: | Part Image |
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Part Name | Part Description: | Part Image |
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| Gantry Assembly |
This is the Upper assembly of the Printer. It has the Z-Towers & X-Axis assembly including the majority of the circuitry, motors, belts, etc that power the 3D printer.
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Printer Base | This is the Lower assembly of the Printer. It has the Build Plate & Printer Base including the power system, build plate assembly, etc that power the 3D printer. |
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| Leadscrew | These are two long screws located inside the two Z-Towers, they are connected to the Motor Assembly by a Shaft Coupling. The leadscrew is made of metal. |
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Shaft Coupling | This is a pressure-tightened coupling that links the Leadscrew and Motor shaft together, transferring rotation to the Leadscrew. |
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| Brass Nuts | Brass nuts located on each side of the X-Axis assembly and inside the Z-Towers, providing a screw point for the Leadscrews. |
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Z -Towers (Z-Axis Pillars) | The two pillars holding up the X-Axis assembly and providing Z mouvement support and control; each pillar has two linear rails, a leadscrew, and pathing for a USB-C cable. |
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| Linear Guide Tracks | 2x (4x total) Linear Tracks located inside each of the Z-Towers that allow the X-Axis assembly to travel up and down the Z-Axis. The tracks are made of metal. |
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Linear Track Skates | The skates travel up and down the Z-Axis Tracks, holding up the X-Axis assembly inside each Z-Tower. The skates are made of plastic. |
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| X-Axis Assembly | The X-Axis assembly includes the Extruder Assembly, alongside the Left and Right enclosures for the filament sensor, LCD display, AI camera, etc. |
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Extruder Assembly | The Extruder assembly includes the extruder motor, bogie, heating elements, and associated circuitry for controlling extrusion and prints. |
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¶ Recommended Lubricants:
That's a question with no “correct” answer and each has its own use and benefits; we'll just list the pros and cons of each and leave that decision for you.
- While we recommend using specific different types of lubricants for different usage areas within the printer, you can pick one and use them across all usaged areas on the printer. Just make sure you use something that matches the below recommendations.
- Don't use regular old WD-40 (Universal, etc) this can be harmful, see below for Community Recommendations and Reasoning.
- “The one thing I will tell everyone to stay away from is oils: they are hard to work with and expensive compared to grease and offer no real benefit over solid grease / lubes.” - Austin Dennis
| TYPE: | PROS: | CONS: | RECOMMENDATION: (affiliate links) |
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Grease: Broadly for our application, industrial greases fall into one of two camps: metal-on-metal or plastic-on-something contact. Lithium based greases are better suited to metal-on-metal contact while silicone based greases are better suited to plastic-on-something contact. Just about any industrial grease will do the trick as long as it doesn't have any particulates in it (PTFE is the exception). The Z-axis (primarily 2x leadscrews) doesn't see a lot hard, quick motion or heavy loads for this to make a huge difference. Case: Grease is primarily used for the 2x Z-Axis Leadscrews. It can ALSO be used for the Linear Guide tracks too if you don't have Dry Lube (see below). A lot of people have had great success with White Lithium Greases (that's what comes on it from the factory). Go with what makes your wallet happy (but see recommendations). |
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WD-40 Specialist - White Lithium Grease This is aerosolized; look for one that comes with a precise application straw; shake before use. 
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Dry Lubricant1: You can absolutely pick the wrong stuff and there's a lot of it out there. Not all dry lubes are created equal or even function in the same way. Avoid things like graphite as graphite is an abrasive in most motion system applications like a 3D printer (but it's awesome for lubricating screw threads). Case: Dry Lubricant is used for the 4x Linear Guide Tracks (2 Z-axis Tower). Here's the bottom line: get a dry lube with PTFE as it's main constituent. 1. Dry Lubricant starts as a liquid and dries, leaving behind a Powder. |
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2. This one isn't a huge deal for operation, but it's the reason you need to re-apply every so often. |
WD-40 Specialist - Dry Lube with PTFE This is aerosolized; look for one that comes with a precise application straw; shake before use. 
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¶ Z-Axis Leadscrew Inspection (2 - 5 min):
¶ What you need:
| Required: |
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¶ Instructions:
- Using the cutouts on the side of each Z tower, carefully inspect the leadscrew, leadscrew nut, and linear guide channels for any signs of damage.
- There doesn't need to be a lot of lubricant on the working area, but it should be obvious to you that there is lubricant on the motion surfaces.
- With grease, you'll likely see spots where a bunch of grease has settled, that's normal. Just wipe away any excess.
- Compare the results of your inspection against the periodicity section above.
- If no maintenance requirements are met from that section, no further action is required.
¶ Lubricant Top Off (5 -15 min):
For a quick top off, you can use your choice of Dry Lube or Grease to apply to each of the Leadscrews within their respective Z-Towers.
- We recommend using Grease (White Lithium), however you can also use Dry Lube (with PTFE).
- You may need to adjust application method depending on chosen Lubricant, and lubricant form (spray, paste, etc).
¶ What you need:
| Required: |
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¶ Instructions:
- Set up absorbent catches in the bottom of the Z towers to stop the Dry Lube liquid or Grease from entering the bottom compartment or motor shaft couplings.
- If you get the liquid in either place, you have to clean them out with isopropyl alcohol and start over.
- Home the Z-Axis using the LCD / App. Turn off the printer.
- Using the cutouts on the side of each Z tower, add lubricant as necessary to the areas identified in the next section.
- You can either use the Spray Applicator (very carefully) or an Acid Brush to top-up the current lubricant.
4. Run the Z-axis to the top limit and apply lubricant to any areas you couldn't get to in step 2.
5. Home the Z-Axis and raise it up to the top limit 4 times. The Z-Axis is now ready for normal operation.
¶ Full Clean and Re-Lubricate (45 min - 2 hours):
There are two ways to do this: the Normal Way, and the Hard Way™.
- Normal Way: For this, you'll remove the Gantry from the Printer, and then use gravity and other tools (long stick/rod etc) to first clean, then re-apply lubricant into hard to reach places. This way is faster and easier, and doesn't require breaking down the Printer Gantry into smaller parts while limiting potential damage (USB C cable crimp, gantry alignment, etc).
- Hard Way: Here, we'll break down the gantry into its component parts, releasing the Z-Axis alongside the Extruder Assembly, and Left / Right blocks; this will allow easier access to all the component parts for cleaning (easier to clean, more efficient cleaning) and then lubrication (easier to apply, better overall result, etc).
¶ What you need:
| Required: | Optional: |
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* If using the Hard Way, these aren't as important ( good to have) as accessing various cleaning / lube application areas will be easier, |
¶ Instructions (Normal & Hard):
Follow these first couple steps, they are the same for Normal & Hard ways.
¶ Step 1:
- Remove the spool holder (if installed).
- Set up 2 chairs as shown and set your printer (unplugged) across the gap so you can access the bottom compartment.
- Push tabs to remove the compartment cover to expose the Z-motor/wiring compartment.
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¶ Step 2:
- Unscrew and disconnect both USB-C cables.
- Disconnect the motor wires with a firm pull near the connector.
- Remove all circled screws.
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Step 3:
- Remove the Gantry assembly by gently pulling up on the gantry bar from above (use care to guide out the 2x USB-C Gantry cables out of the Base).
- Place it flat along the back of the Z towers on a stable horizontal surface (watch for the LCD screen).
Put the Base Plate aside for now.
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Step 4:
- One side at at time (Left & Right), remove the two screws that retain the Z-axis Motor Plates.
- Be sure to support the motor as you remove these as it will want to sag with gravity.
- Remove the entire motor assembly by pulling it firmly and steadily away from the tower. Go slow and apply gradual strength.
- The motor shaft and leadscrew will rotate until the leadscrew is free.
- You may need to apply extra force at the very end to release the leadscrew.
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Step 5:
- Using IPA and the clean cloth/paper towel, thoroughly clean the the leadscrews to remove all grease and debris.
- Use of a toothbrush (do not use it for anything else after this) can help in getting stuff out of the threads.
When you're satisfied, put the leadscrews + motor assembly aside for now.
¶ Step 6:
Now, follow either Step 6 - Normal Way, or Step 6 - Hard Way; after that, continue on to Step 7.
¶ 6. NORMAL WAY:
- Spray the end of a Q-tip with IPA and us it to clean out the threads of the brass (look for brass / gold threads) leadscrew nuts inside each of the 2x Z-Towers.
- Use as many Q-tips as necessary, but don't sweat it too much (it doesn't have to be perfect).
- Most of the residual grease will work it's way out of the threads (over time), just focus on the big blobs and visible debris*.
* This part is kind of tough with big hands and I found that holding the Q-tip with a pair of teasers helped me reach what I needed to.
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6. HARD WAY:
- Remove the top caps and support bar of the Z-towers:
- The disassembly is fairly straightforward, just start removing screws until the plate comes out and you can see the top of the brass nut.
- Be careful! There is nothing that stops the Gantry inside the Z-towers; make sure the USB-C cables are not going to get pinched when moving things around.
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2. Remove the X-Axis Assembly (alongside the LCD Screen enclosure, Extruder Assembly, and Filament Intake enclosure) from the two Z-Towers.
- With the X-Axis Assembly now free, refer to Step 6 - Normal Way to clean the two Brass Nuts.
- This process should be a lot easier, and more accessible with the X-Axis assembly now free. Clean both the threaded top side, and unthreaded tube bottom side.
- Be careful with the USB-C cables running inside the Z-Towers. Take note of positioning and location inside the respective towers for reassembly later.
¶ Step 7:
Now, follow either Step 7 - Normal Way, or Step 7 - Hard Way; after that, continue on to Step 8.
¶ 7. NORMAL WAY:
- Clean the 2 internal Linear Guide Tracks inside each of the Z-towers (4 total tracks).
- A long stick with a paper towel on the end can help immensely here. Just try not to scratch the guide tracks, aluminum is a relatively soft metal.
- Use IPA as needed until towel is clear and you cannot see anything on the length of each track.
- Be careful! Move the X-Axis Assembly as needed to access the rails from above and below and clean the length of the track.
- Be careful! When moving the assembly, make sure the USB-C cables in either towers don't get pinched in the process.
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7. HARD WAY:
- Clean the 2 internal Linear Guide Tracks inside each of the Z-towers (4 total tracks).
- Use IPA as needed until towel is clear and you cannot see residue on the length of each track.
- A long stick with a paper towel on the end can help immensely here. Just try not to scratch the guide tracks, aluminum is a relatively soft metal.
- Clean the 4 linear track skates, 2 on each side of the X-Axis assembly near the Filament Intake Body (2x) and near the LCD Display Body (2x).
- These will be facing outwards from the Brass Thread you cleaned earlier.
- Use IPA as needed until each of the skates are clean and dry.
- Each skate may have gaps and dips where previously applied grease may be hidden, don't worry too much about these.
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Step 8:
Now that all the debris and old grease is removed, apply fresh lube to all the surfaces you just cleaned:
¶ 8.1: NORMAL WAY & HARD WAY: Grease: 2x Leadscrews
- Apply enough grease to cover the surface of each Leadscrews in a even layer.
- Acid brushes can help in the application, but your finger will do the trick just fine.
- If you can't get it exactly even, just make sure there's grease along the entire length and the brass nuts will spread it out evenly later.
- Be careful! Do not let any grease or dry lube enter the shaft coupling. If it gets into the shaft coupler, you need to remove the shaft coupler from both the motor shaft and the leadscrew and thoroughly clean all surfaces with IPA for it to function properly.
- Warning! While you can use Dry Lubricant for the Leadscrews, it's not recommended as it'll increase the noise (and wear and tear) on your printer.
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¶ 8.2: NORMAL WAY & HARD WAY: Dry Lube 4x Linear Rails
- Prop Up the gantry assembly against a wall so the bottom openings face up and it's not going to fall over.
- Warning! This stuff can get messy and the fumes are pretty gnarly. Take the motor assemblies and gantry assembly outside or into a well ventilated space.
- Using the straw, apply the liquid in short bursts (0.5 sec) to each of the 4x Linear Guide Tracks and allow the liquid to propagate down the track with Gravity, you don't need much.
- Shake the container well prior to use to allow the particles to disperse evenly through the liquid.
- Seriously, less is more, just make sure the surface of the track is visibly wet.
- Allow to dry completely before bringing it back inside or proceeding.
- Be careful! Do not let any grease or dry lube enter the shaft coupling. If it gets into the shaft coupler, you need to remove the shaft coupler from both the motor shaft and the leadscrew and thoroughly clean all surfaces with IPA for it to function properly.
- Be careful! Do not let any grease or dry lube enter the shaft coupling. If it gets into the shaft coupler, you need to remove the shaft coupler from both the motor shaft and the leadscrew and thoroughly clean all surfaces with IPA for it to function properly.
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Step 9:
Now that everything is nice and lubricated, it's time to re-assemble everything! If you fully disassembled the Gantry, follow Step 9 - Hard Way followed by Step 9 - Easy Way. If not, only follow Step 9 - Easy Way.
¶ 9. HARD WAY:
- Insert the X-Axis assembly back into each side of the two Z-Towers.
- It may be easier to do one of the Z-Tower at a time, carefully pulling the USB-C cable out through the bottom.
- Be careful! When feeding the X-Axis Assembly, make sure both USB-C cables are fed in correctly, and don't get pinched / bent..
- With everything set inside, place the X-Axis Assembly and Z-Towers down flat along the back of the Z towers on a stable horizontal surface (watch for the LCD screen).
- Reverse the Steps from Step 6 - Hard Way to reassemble the Gantry assembly.
- Once the Gantry is reassembled, follow the Steps below (Step 9 - Easy Way):
¶ 9. EASY WAY:
- With the X-Axis Assembly at about ⅓ total travel distance away from the top of the Z-towers, feed each motor assembly into the Z-towers.
- Make sure to slot the end of the rigid section to the USB-C cables back into the motor plate to help support the motor assemblies.
- When the leadscrew meets the leadscrew nut, use the shaft coupler to rotate the leadscrew by hand until it threads into the nut at least 3 turns.
- When both leadscrews are threaded, push the motor plates into the Z-tower until they're flush and fasten the plates with their respective screws.
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Step 10:
- Pick up the Gantry Assembly and carefully place it back into the Printer Base.
- Feed the USB-C cables into the holes first and use care to avoid pinching the cables.
- You may need to push the bottoms of the z-towers apart slightly to get it to fit into the cutouts.
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Step 11:
- Fasten the gantry section to the base section with the 8 screws that were removed previously.
- Tighten them in a star pattern as shown in the “Hardware Examination” section of this guide where it explains how to tighten the bed screws.
- Insert all removed cables into the motors and main board.
- Fasten the USB-C cables in place with their respective screws.
¶ Step 12:
- Replace the bottom plastic cover and cart your printer to it's final resting place.
- Plug it in, turn it on, and home the Z-axis.
- If everything went as expected, raise the Z-axis up to the top limit and then home it again 4 times.
- Run Auto Bed Leveling (ABL).
The Z-axis is now ready for Operation.
* Discard the two chairs to your local volcano 🌋.