¶ Volcano Hotend and All Metal/Bi-Metal Heatbrake Replacement
This is a text based supplement to the build log video (below) that is intended to provide supplemental information on how to replicate this mod including parts sourcing links, cost assessments, extra information not covered in the video's scope, and things I changed after the video.
I've complied a parts/tools list and cost report in this spreadsheet for your convenience.
¶ Things I would do differently from the video:
- Don't use the anti-seize I did for the nozzle. It's quite noxious for the first few print hours, don't risk your health.
- Wrap the wires in Polymide tape to protect the insulation. I ripped mine apart to do this after the fact, but just do it from the start. This is for fire safety, do not risk your life.
- The PTFE tube in the top of the heatsink sticks out much further than mine in the video when looking at the stock heatsink. I replaced it so that I was left with about 15mm sticking out the top fully assembled. This assisted greatly in loading filament.
¶ Good things to know:
- Go watch a tutorial on thread tapping on YouTube. Watch a skilled machinist and follow the advice religiously, you only get a max of 2 shots (on for each heatsink in the box). Use cutting fluid, it's not optional. Drill out the heatsink hole to a diameter of 5mmor you won't be able to tap the hole with an M6 tap; it won't fit. Put the heatsink in a vice for stability while tapping.
- Go slow, take your time. Spare parts are practically non-existent for the heatsink as the time of posting, so get it right.
- DO NOT SUBSTITUE BORON NITRITE PASTE WITH COMPUTER CPU THERMAL GREASE/PASTE. I've seen the idea floating around Reddit, terrible idea. It's not stable at the temps we print at, even for PLA and you'll get nasty off gassing. Just buy the tube from Slice Engineering and get some peace of mind.
- You'll need different fan ducts to line up the air to the right spot in either case (stock heat break or threaded). I recommend PETG (or even better is ABS), but PLA should hold you over if you don't mind reprinting them every once in a while. Here's the OnShape link to export it yourself or want to mess with it. Tree supports recommended but maybe not mandatory depending on your bridging settings.
- If you go with the STOCK heatbreak, take a look at SpiggyTech's Printables page on it for additional models and instructions. I haven't done any testing on the stick heatbrake, he's the expert.
That's all I really have for now, go forth and happy printing!